ShipSpotting.com Forum
Shipspotters all over the world => Help and Advice => Topic started by: Ship's Cat on August 03, 2005, 11:37:40 AM
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Please post any topics relating to cameras, ship photography and post processing here - whether digital or traditional film formats. You can post topics on processing software issues, as well as ask for or pass on any ship photography hints, tips and advice you may like to share.
Maybe you are considering a purchase and want to canvass opinion on a certain brand of camera, or maybe you have questions to ask about exposure, or post processing. Maybe you have experiences - good or bad - to pass on. If it is ship photography-related, then this is the forum to post your query or advice in.
Among the vast membership, there are bound to be people who will have the answer to any question you ask. :-)
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I have been doing some research on compact scopes/monoculars for shore-to-ship viewing (max. approx. 1.5miles/2.4km). Someone suggested I try and stick to the 10x25 range, if I want to be able to read the name on a ship coming into the harbour.
Here is what I have found so far. Any thoughts?
This from Zeiss:
http://www.opticsplanet.net/zeiss-10x25-b-design-selection-monocular.html
Or this, which is labelled as a Birding Scope:
http://www.opticsplanet.net/swift-10x40-birdfeeder-monocular-779.html
And then there's this one (the ratio is lower but is has such 007-appeal!):
http://www.opticsplanet.net/minox-md-8x16-monocular.html
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Hi,
does anyone have any comments about the new Fuji Finepix S9600 Zoom ?
I am about to swap from film to digital, and like the look of this camera as it has a wide angle(28mm), and quite decent zoom. I have always used separate lenses on my film SLR, but like the idea of the 'all-in-one' package.
I have read the reports on the Panasonic Lumix elsewhere, and will probably add that to my short-list.
many thanks
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I hope to shortly upgrade my Canon Hotshot digital camera to a Canon digital SLR. I already have a manual Canon SLR dating from the late 1990s along with several zoom and telephoto lenses. Will I be able to use these lenses on a Digital camera or are they all obsolete? Any advice would be much appreciated
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If they are Canon EOS autofocus lenses then yes they will work fine. If they are Sigma, Tamron etc. some do not work without rechipping.
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Hey guy,
I think you want some photos & videos of ship relating topics then I can suggest you one site for that from which you can get no. of videos & photos related this...this site is given below:
http://www.splashvision.com
I have also refer this link when I want to see some videos,photos etc..
If you get your sufficient answer from this site then please reply me....
Thanks.........
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If they are EF lenses then they should work fine. If you old Canon has the AF mount system then you're out of luck. I believe the EOS system uses only EF lenses. Third party lenses (sigma, tokina) need to be for the canon mount. Some may require rechipping.
Good luck!
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good evening ,
im trying to post pics with a size of 1.3 mb but i allways get a failure notice that my pic is too big . I even tried cutting out text information about the vessel because i tought it would reduce my download size .. i tried many times .. :)
is there anything i can do about this ?
best regards
Alec
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Whats the size of your shots? I use 44 times 30 cm, and 72 dpi. Bigger formats than that doesnt get accepted...
Tomas
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1.3MB isn't necessary for posting here. At a resolution of 72dpi, a 1400x1050 pic (as an example) shouldn't take more than 600kb. Make sure your pics are no more than 72 dpi since that's all any monitor will display. There's also no use in posting pics that are 4000x4000 pixels. Try to keep it within a reasonable size and you'll have better success!
Good luck,
Marek
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Today I said to myself "lets go crazy" and I went to the photoshop.
I came home with a body 50 D and a EF 70-300mm 14-56 IS USM (http://www.kieskeurig.be/objectief/canon/ef_70-300mm_14-56_is_usm/prijzen/259003/)
Did I do a good job???
Next on my list is a 100-400 mm
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Hi Sevo,
yes you did a nearly perfect job. 50D is great. Please try Sigma 50-500mm first before you buy the 100-400mm.
Always good shots
Peter- Xylad
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Nice job Stevo, a great combination. i have previsouey had a Sigma lens and would recommend you have a look as peter says
rgds
Andrew
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Hi Sevo, yes you did a nearly perfect job. 50D is great.
Peter, I had a 50 D in my hands on the summit and I can't wait to start spotting.
I also know already how to use the timer :-D
Next lens is maybe for next year. Useless in Antwerp, Terneuzen but should be good for Rotterdam
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Stevo, if you're intending to buy L-glass (100-400) then why not sell the 70-300 and add the price you're willing to pay for the 100-400 and see if you can find a second hand Canon 28-300L.
By the way, using a 5D with that lens for normal work and my old Canon D60 with the 70-200F4L with additional 1.4x extender.
Cheers,
Wimpie
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Hi,
I am looking for new camera , and I need your help. I need a camera with which I could make pictures at distance 5 KM ( 3 Miles ).
What could I get for about 500
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I reccomend not using the Panasonic Lumix, the Fuji would be a lot better, or a Canon 50D if you have that kind of money.
Heiko
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How i can post photos in gallery?
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http://www.shipspotting.com/modules/xoopsfaq/
Check the FAQ & Site Standards in the left side section.
There is all you need to know.
Good luck and welcome to the site.
rgds Stan
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Hi there, I am a new member. How do I send photo's to the website?
Thanks
wilka
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Hi Wilka,
Stan has already answered the question in his post just above yours. This, and all that any member needs to know is in the FAQ and site standards link,
P
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Sigma 50-500 is real hard to beat for us shipspotters. I use it with a tripod and mirror lockup.
All the range is there except for the under 50mm.
It is rather slow however in low lights with ships moving.
And at very close quarters for my aerials I would go for a faster lense. But then I would have to carry a second camera on the bridge .
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Hey all,
Like to buy this lens "Canon EF 100-400 mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM"
Your comments are welcome.
Grt Stevo
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Stevo,
The Canon EF 100-400mm lense is fantastic - I've had one for 4 years now and have never looked back. It is very soft at 400mm, pull it back to 390mm and the image is sharp as you like - sweet spot is f8.
I use mine for all kinds of photography, infact all of my shots on here are taken with it.
Happy snapping
Steve
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I echo Steve's comments about the Canon 100mm-400mm lens. I've had mine for about three years and it is ideal for what I use it for.
Just browse through my own photographs of ships coming, and going, to Hartlepool and the results can clearly be seen.
Just for the record I am using a Canon 1000D camera.
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The dreamkit, whom i wont replace, ok, if i win the lottery then:
Canon 7D and tamron 18-270.
Wahoo, great stuff. Poorest man in Norway, but having saved for this a long time
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I use a Sigma 70-300mm Lens with a Canon 1000D suits me but it will be a while before I will
upgrade to a better Canon camera, thats unless I win the lottery mind you!!!
Ian Thomas
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Hi,
I have the Canon 100mm-400mm and the Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8 USM,
Both are really great lenses,
But at the Maasvlakte during the summer we have real problems with the heatwaves on the water.
But only when you takes pics from 300-400mm
Al the pics between the 300-400mm you can throw them in the trash.
I have the 500D.
Regards,
Dave
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Like Ian, I too use the Sigma 70-300MM with my Canon 350D.
And like Dave, you notice the heat haze at longer distances but that would not change even with a different lens; it is all due to the weather.
Here at Southampton, you can hear the "Yippee!" when the wind is coming from the north or north east. Usually, it comes from the south west and brings a lot of haze and moisture in the air.
The northerly wind is nice, cold and clear! (also rare!)
Kelvin
(I also may have won the lottery with a job offer abroad!)
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Morning Derek,
No. it isn't that bad over here.
If only I had a decent job that paid a decent wage!
So, after a long wait, it looks very much as if I am off to the mountains of south west Saudi Arabia (Abha).
It will be interesting to see the place again after a 30 year absence.
No chance of seeing any ships there, I am afraid.
Lots of chances of getting a new camera at a decent price though!
Cheers
Kelvin
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Heat Haze - the bain of everyones life in photography >:(
Steve
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I had a 50 D in my hands on the summit and I can't wait to start spotting.
I also know already how to use the timer :-D
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Bought this one for my canon 7D:
http://www.sigmaphoto.com/shop/50-500mm-f45-63-apo-dg-os-hsm-sigma
Oh lord what a lens.
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Nice one Tomas,
I look forward to seeing the results and hearing some first hand feedback on what you think of it 'in the field'.
Best Regards
John J.
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Hi Folks can anyone give me advice as to what would be a nice not to expensive camera.. I live very close to the Esperance port and the camera iam using at the minute is not up to standard as you have seen in the pics i have posted
Regards Peter
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Hi Peter
These two shots were taken by a Nikon Coolpix with 7 X zoom. The models keep changing but I think the zoom is important
New Diamond at Port Pirie
From about 500 metres away
http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1203711
Radiance of the Seas at Circular Quay Sydney
Close up from ferry wharf
http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1457917
Both with some help from Picasa
Good luck
Clyde
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For the moment I would advise: Canon IXUS 230 HS.
Cheers
Fred
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Thanks for your help i was looking at this camera
Fujifilm FinePix S4000 - Digital camera..... or the Fujifilm FinePix S4000 14 MP Digital Camera with Fujinon 30x Super Wide Angle Optical Zoom Lens and 3-Inch LCD i see what you guys think before i purchase Both seem like they are decent cameras the first onbe is about 100 dollars cheaper
regards peter
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Hi again Peter
Its your decision. Nikon owners and Canon owners are usually as loyal to their brands as Ford and General Motors car owners are to theirs.
Try Google searches with the word Review before the product name. Some of these are very comprehensive, particularly for DSLR cameras.
Also look for comment about zoom cameras. Here is one of many results http://www.dpreview.com/products/search/cameras
Best regards
Clyde
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30X Zoom? That really is a no go zone for me. Useless.
But as Clyde says: your decision, your money.
Cheers Fred
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Having previously had the Fuji 6900z camera the real dislike is the electronic zoom lens, it could be very difficult to get it to the right zoom range. I moved on to the Panasonic DMC-FZ50 and it is heaps better in that respect, unfortunately Panasonic no longer make a manual zoom bridge camera. However the Fuji HS20 is a manual zoom so might be worth a look?
Patrick
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Thanks again folks i will work something out. Not good on cameras but i have been using the computer for 15 odd years so iam OK in that department.. In answer to you question Derek Re
Do you use manipulation software to enhance your pictures? no i do not once again thank you all
Regards peter
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Also i forgot to mention the ships i take photos off are no further than 500 to 1000 metres away,depending where i take the shot..I can get very close when they are berthing.. so maybe just need a moderate to good camera they are not long range shots although ships anchored in the bay are about 3 miles out... I have bored you all enough on this subject so ill let you know what i buy
Regards Peter
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My advice
Go for a good quality Olympus SLR.
The bodies are average, but Olympus have a well deserved reputation for having an excellent lens.
Also try not to use the maximum zoom,on any camera,unless absolutely necessary.
In 35 mm terms 50 mm to 135 mm produce excellent results in general terms.
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This is the camera i think i will purchase
Canon PowerShot SX130 IS Digital Camera - 12.1 Megapixel + BONUS Canon Powershot Case PSCM2 + SanDisk 4GB Card. Save $42
Thanks for your help
Peter
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Gee ill get this Camera sorted out soon iam messing up some good shots so whatever isnt up to scratch iam fully aware it will be deleted and i can deal with that lol
Happy New Year to all
Regards Peter
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Having recently upgraded from a Fuji 9500s Bridge camera to the new Fuji hs20exr 16mp 30x digital zoom I have yet to try the full potential of this camera. but going upon my previous camera this may just be what I have been looking for within my budget .
Hopefully will up load some picture take in the new year .
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Hello everyone Im looking for some advise on a camera to buy that takes good quality pictures and videos. all advise is appreciated
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Go to www.dpreview.com where you can do a side by side comparison of two or more cameras.
Cheers Fred
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Pretty much all modern bridge cameras (super zooms) and DSLRs - particularly DSLRs - will take good quality photos and video. What's your budget? Do you want a DSLR (takes interchangeable lenses)? Canon and Nikon are probably the best-known makes, with cameras starting at two or three hundred
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Thanks everyone all information appreciated
still haven't decided what camera to buy
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I'm looking into getting a new camera for getting decent focused shots. Anybody got any good tips?
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As Fred said earlier "Go to www.dpreview.com where you can do a side by side comparison of two or more cameras." You will also find reviews of many products.
Remember that there will always be better cameras than those that fit your budget. Don't let that stop you from enjoying photography. If you are really keen, look for a course at a nearby evening college, not only for instruction but also to meet others who share your interest
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If the finances are there, a good combo is a canon7D and a tamron 18-270mm.
I use this, and a sigma 50-500, also a great lens.
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Hello All,
Just a bit of advice or user comments on the Nikon D7100 DSLR please.
I am considering purchasing the Nikon D7100 body alongwith a Nikon 28mm-300mm F3.5-5.6G ED VR Zoom lense to use as my 'working camera' for when I am away at sea. My current Sony A350 & Tamron 70-300mm lens has had 5 years of heavy abuse not only by travelling thousands of miles but being out on deck in the heat and the ice etc etc.
I have a Nikon D4 for use at home and there is no way that that is going to find its sea-legs !!!
Your comments or suggestions please would be very much appreciated.
Many thanks in advance,
Cheers,
Dan.
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Hi Dan
Bought a NikonD7100 a year ago combined with a Sigma 120-400 lens.
My best by ever :)
As you said you want to bring the camera onbord with you and I do the same
The camera never fail to perform even in bad light and heavy pitching and rolling.
Good ISO values and a lot of different setting covering most occasions.
Absolutely something to think about buying.
Best Regards
Morten Christiansen
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Thank you for your comment Morten, I was considering a lens up to 400mm but couldn't source a reasonably priced one that went down to around 28mm as I am trying not to have to change lenses or carry two lenses with me on deck as I have had issues with dust / grit etc on the camera sensor so was looking at getting a 'one for all' lens.
Cheers,
Dan.
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Funny topic this, apparently nobody seems to care about photography and is only interested in hardware. May I suggest that photography advice becomes a separate topic? Or are we all using the P position in our camera to let it sort out how our picture is going to look like?
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I have a problem with my camera Canon SX50 HS and I can not determine whether it is up to the camera or to the weather conditions. Does anybody use also this camera. Can anybody sent me some pics taken with these camera at full zoom (1200mm).
For example I add two photos. One looks like it is painted, the other is not really sharp.
Regards
Klaus_D
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In my opinion 2083.JPG looks like heat haze ... taken with long zoom setting. Various camera test sites do not score the SX50 camera highly at long zoom lengths.
Attached is one of my photos taken with Panasonic Fz200 at same focal length and pixel count reduced to approximate with your photo. Hand held. Distance approx 1km.
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Hi ChasB46,
thanks for the picture. It looks a little bit better than mine. Zooms over 500 mm are apparently not useful for photo shooting at the sea.
I think I will sale my Canon SX50 HS and my old Canon 20D and get some new equipment.
Possible a Canon 70D. But which lens?
Canon 100-400 L
Canon 70-300 L
Sigma 50-500
Regards
Klaus
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Claus D, if you spend
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I think you have problems with the heat haze,
On the Maasvlakte Rotterdam we have the same problems I have the Canon 500D with the 100-400 L
On the fuly zoom 400mm i have the same problems during the summer,but when i reduce the pics 2000 for shipspotting the problems is solved.
But on other places around the Schelde the lens at 400 mm is perfect.
I have to say the lens is amazing !!!
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Buying a Canon 5D Mark III paired with a Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC tomorrow, leaping into the fullframe-world, looking forward to that.
Tomas
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Thank you for all your comments.
Regards
Klaus_D
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Klaus,
After two years of using the Canon 100-400mm, I can only recommend it! I have taken about 20,000 photos with it, hand-held, and out of those maybe 50 photos have been crap, meaning out of focus. I had the Sigma 150-500 before and it was useless, I had hundreds of photos of ships with sharp bows and unsharp superstructures! So I can only recommend spending the extra money to buy the Canon 100-400mm, it's truly an amazing lens and worth the extra money!
Cheers,
Aleksi
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Tamron 28-300 :)
The size is the perfect one, you can virtually do everything with it. But....
if you can afford it go for the Canon 28-300 (it does require a Canon camera though ;D) I use it for my automotive photography mostly (up to 50-75000 shots per year) and it may not be the quickest lens along the racetrack, it would never be a a handicap for "fast" going ships.
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If I can just chip in - I think 28 - 300 is too large a range for a zoom to cope, and in many cases edge sharpness is compromised. I would suggest 24 or 28 to 100ish and 70 - 300 or 100 - 400. Personally I use Canon 24 - 105 and 70 - 200 but will soon trade up to 70 - 300. Two bodies are best, because if you change lenses too often, sooner or later you will have dust problems on the sensors.
Allan
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I am using the 50-500mm along with 5D Mark III, very happy with that combo, makes very sharp and clear pics at daytime.
Also using a tamron 24-70 f/2.8, very happy with that one as well.
Takes some time getting used to a 50-500, its HUGE, but i love it.
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[quote author=Tomas
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If I can just chip in - I think 28 - 300 is too large a range for a zoom to cope, and in many cases edge sharpness is compromised. I would suggest 24 or 28 to 100ish and 70 - 300 or 100 - 400. Personally I use Canon 24 - 105 and 70 - 200 but will soon trade up to 70 - 300. Two bodies are best, because if you change lenses too often, sooner or later you will have dust problems on the sensors.
Allan
Allen, we use the CANON 28-300 lens for professional purposes (not shipping related) and I have not experienced the problems you are describing. The real downside is the price and the weight, but I have been carrying the lens in combination with a 1D weekend after weekend, and I am used to it now. (and it fits just nicely in my cycle bag, when I do my daily tour along the Landtong in Rozenburg :))
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Nikon 70-300.....It works for me ;D
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Pieter & Allan
I have been using a Canon 18-200IS for some time and find it very useful for short and medium range shipping, I also have a Canon 70-300IS for longer range.
Regards
Ken
As I do my maritime photography on a bicycle, I appreciate to have one camera and one lens. ;)
My only compromise is that I cannot shoot a VLCC fully sideways at close range, but a lens capable of doing that would produce a bent ship anyway.
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I am as well going by bicycle and also I am sometimes taking photos from onboard when I am onboard a ship.
I am very satisfied with following equipment:
Nikon D90
Lenses:
Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 70-300 mm VR
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105 mm VR
Very good quality, and yet the equipment has a handy size.
Greetings from Germany,
Cornelia
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Hi
Nikon 70-300.....It works for me ;D
... ;D that's it. I have now ( because my old Nikon D40 kaput in Dec. 2013 ) a Nikon D5100.
I use:
Nikkor 18-55
Nikkor 18-105 ( this is really good )
Nikkor 55-200
Nikkor 70-300 ( really good too )
Of course, you can imagine that I am a real Nikonist. ;D
MBregards.
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Interesting to see all your experiences and advices, thanks.
However, does anyone have some experience with lenses above 200mm to be used from a running boat or ship (engine running, some vibrations, probably rolling, and you are on windy deck...).
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Interesting to see all your experiences and advices, thanks.
However, does anyone have some experience with lenses above 200mm to be used from a running boat or ship (engine running, some vibrations, probably rolling, and you are on windy deck...).
we have used the 28-300 shooting from a moving car, the stabiliser is good enough to get proper shots.
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The above mentioned lenses do have a stabilising System and it works very well when taking photos from a quick moving Harbour Ferry and similar. It was worth buying with stabiliser, as I see from friends who do not have - not always good photos.
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The above mentioned lenses do have a stabilising System and it works very well when taking photos from a quick moving Harbour Ferry and similar. It was worth buying with stabiliser, as I see from friends who do not have - not always good photos.
and if in doubt, crank up the ISO and use a very fast shutter time, (make sure your aperture is still acceptable (7.1 or so).
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Allan,
I think dust on the sensor is inevitable, regardless of whether you use 2 camera/lens pairs or change lenses.
Zoom lenses, such as the 70mm-300mm must allow air in and out. Otherwise, when you slide the lens body up and down to zoom, the lens would snap shut because of the vacuum.
One thing I have found useful in the dust arena is switching the camera off between groups of shots; not between every shot but rather on a "now & then" basis. This way, the camera sensor cleaning routine that the camera goes through when switching off should at least prevent a build up of dust.
Incidentally, I too am using the Canon 70mm-300mm but the black version. I read a couple of recent reviews of this lens and they each said this lens was very close to the quality of the white version and probably not worth the additional '1' on the leading edge of the price! I have to say I am very happy with it but I have discovered one drawback; if I try to use the full 300mm, I will see softening on the extremes. Aircraft noses are a good example of this. The answer is simple; stick to a max of around 270/280mm.
Kelvin
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Hi Everyone
I hope someone can advise me on a problem I have with my PC regarding my camera. Firstly let me say that I have Dropbox uploaded onto my PC to enable me to edit data for a aircraft software company, I do not use it for any other business at all.
I have a Lumix FZ48 and since I upgraded from XP to Windows 7 this is what happens. I try to download the photos using the option download to PC. When I do this a Dropbox folder opens on my PC screen to download my pics and I get no other options whatsoever to put my pics in either My Pictures or Picasso 3. Is there a way of by passing the Dropbox folder at all please?
Thanks in anticipation
Gordon
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Hi Gordon,
I am not expert but just wondered if the following would be an option.
After connecting the camera to the pc via the USB cable, and turning the camera on, can you open the Picasa programme and click on import ?
Or, open Picasa before connecting the camera to the PC and then click on import.
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You can also try this
https://www.dropbox.com/en/help/307
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Thanks Fergal and Alan
I printed off the camera disable page and found the problem straight away in the AutoPlay as suggested. It was just a matter of changing the 2 boxes in question from Dropbox to Picasso3.
A very relieved Darleydale!!
All best wishes and thanks again
Gordon
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I am a convert to the all in one super-zooms as they are so very versatile. We purchased an Olympus x30 ultrazoom for a voyage from the UK up the Amazon, some Caribbean Islands and home. Later that year it did sterling service on a voyage to Canada and back.
Excellent little camera and very sharp. However no eyeapeture and a fixed back screen could make it tricky to shoot when strong reflections existed. We therefore for our 2014 world cruise decided to get anoth zoom and that was the Canon x50 HS.
Absolutely brilliant surving freezing temperatures and extreme heat. Two batteries in a day would allow nearly 1000 pictures. Which when approaching Singapore is the kind of number you would be shooting given the huge number of vessels using it and moored up.
There was a chap with a Leica on the Brazilian cruise with a set of Leica in excess of
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"I have absolutely no doubt that they would do brilliant photos but the weight and the pitching ship would make it a trial.
Diesel, the point is that a heavy camera is much more easy to control than the a lighter one. I am using a Canon 1D and a 28-300 which together probably tip the scales at over 5 kg, but the stabiliser and the inertia make a much easier to hold camera than the G6 I sometimes use when quality shots are not a priority. I read the specs of the SX50 and that seems to be verty good value for money camera though.
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I use this as a lens- SUPER
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/9284997050/tamron-to-make-updated-28-300mm-f3-5-6-3-superzoom-for-full-frame-slrs
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I can understand the concept of a heavy camera being more controllable than something lightweight however I do think that if you are taking up to 1000 shots per day that the 5.5kg camera may be not so useful.
I used to have SLRS and have used my brothers DSLR with lenses but when travelling ease of carrying and spped to use plus zoom length are my main concerns.
Approaching Singapore or Sydney and going through the Suez Canal pulled that kind of number. Approaching many harbours at dawn also provided for hundreds of shots with fishing boats etc and the port making great atmospheric shots.
Wandering on deck for the interesting whale or distant ship etc was not a problem - which it may have been with 5kgs around the neck.
Lastly the Canon has effectively a 1200mm zoom which if you are trying to pull in distant ships or land is exceptionally useful. Normally I could name them well before anyone else with binoculars - not that was often a need as it is amazing how many people on cruises have no interest in ships. Bird watchers by the tens, ship enthusiasts by the thumb.
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Hi Diesel, I can confirm from experience that my 5 kg combi does not stop me from regularly taking about 1000-2000 and sometimes 3-4000 shots per day (I also do automotive photography along racetracks on a semi-pro basis). And while I can see the advantages of using a 1200 mm zoom lense, you also have to consider that the sensor size to which it attached is quite a bit smaller than the one used in say the 1D. A larger sensor will allow you to afterwards zoom in on the picture without loosing too much quality. It is not for nothing that a 1Dx body without even glass attached to it will cost you at least 6000 US$.
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Unfortunately the setting were altered on my camera and the pictures have come out as 640 x 480, so I cannot upload them. Can I change the size?
Regards, Brian.
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Unfortunately the setting were altered on my camera and the pictures have come out as 640 x 480, so I cannot upload them. Can I change the size?
Regards, Brian.
You can make them bigger but they will be pixelated.
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Thanks Paul. That'll teach me to be more careful in the future.
Regards, Brian AKA The Pier Master.
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Hello,
has anyone tried Nikon P600 with the super zoom???
How is it for shipspotting ? :)
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I can understand the concept of a heavy camera being more controllable than something lightweight however I do think that if you are taking up to 1000 shots per day that the 5.5kg camera may be not so useful.
I used to have SLRS and have used my brothers DSLR with lenses but when travelling ease of carrying and spped to use plus zoom length are my main concerns.
Approaching Singapore or Sydney and going through the Suez Canal pulled that kind of number. Approaching many harbours at dawn also provided for hundreds of shots with fishing boats etc and the port making great atmospheric shots.
Wandering on deck for the interesting whale or distant ship etc was not a problem - which it may have been with 5kgs around the neck.
Lastly the Canon has effectively a 1200mm zoom which if you are trying to pull in distant ships or land is exceptionally useful. Normally I could name them well before anyone else with binoculars - not that was often a need as it is amazing how many people on cruises have no interest in ships. Bird watchers by the tens, ship enthusiasts by the thumb.
Hi I am considering changing from a standard DSLR (Canon) to a bridge type camera for shiping photos and also general photography as it would be much easyer to carry etc. Just wondered if anyone out here could give any pointers on which ones (makes etc) they are using. Can the pics be enlarged to A3 with good enough quality
Thanks
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Does anyone have any recommendations on how to set a Nikon D7200 for ship spotting? All too common do I end up getting the bow out of focus.
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Does anyone have any recommendations on how to set a Nikon D7200 for ship spotting? All too common do I end up getting the bow out of focus.
I suppose that a Canon works the same, so put the camera on Aperture priority, set it 7.1 at least and to ensure that your shutter times don't get too low, crank up the ISO a little, or more under darker circumstances.
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Does anyone have any recommendations on how to set a Nikon D7200 for ship spotting? All too common do I end up getting the bow out of focus.
I suppose that a Canon works the same, so put the camera on Aperture priority, set it 7.1 at least and to ensure that your shutter times don't get too low, crank up the ISO a little, or more under darker circumstances.
Thanks for your reply. What about metering? Matrix, Spot, or Center Weighted? And focus mode: AF-C, AF-S or AF-A. And last but not least, the focus area (how many squares). D9, D21, D51. 51 being 51 points of focus. I would assume 51 since I want everything in focus.
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Does anyone have any recommendations on how to set a Nikon D7200 for ship spotting? All too common do I end up getting the bow out of focus.
I suppose that a Canon works the same, so put the camera on Aperture priority, set it 7.1 at least and to ensure that your shutter times don't get too low, crank up the ISO a little, or more under darker circumstances.
Thanks for your reply. What about metering? Matrix, Spot, or Center Weighted? And focus mode: AF-C, AF-S or AF-A. And last but not least, the focus area (how many squares). D9, D21, D51. 51 being 51 points of focus. I would assume 51 since I want everything in focus.
I use one focus point, slightly lower than the center. It work for me quite well given the aperture value of 7.1.
Metering for me is spot, and make sure that when you have a black hull in the center, you have to manually under exposed otherwise the rest of the picture, for instance white superstructures in the sun get massively overexposed. Alternatively you meter the lighter parts of the picture and keep that value for the darker parts as well. White ships against a dark sky get more impressive if you underexpose too.
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It would help more if you could let us know what lens set up you have. However, at this stage don't become wrapped up with all the settings as you will just confuse yourself even more.
I currently use a D800/D200 with three main lenses. In normal conditions I use speed priority and a speed of a 400th or more to ensure that lens shake is eliminated, especially with the lager lenses (80/400mm and 70/200mm) at the same time ensuring that the ISO is high enough to ensure edge to edge sharpness. In practice this means and ISO of 400 on dull low light days and less in bright spring/ summer days; with the shorter focal lenses an ISO 100 and a lower speed is quite feasible in most conditions. As for focusing, I usually keep the release down until the focus point locks on to the best point for my requirements.
The only real way of finding out though, is to use the basic settings until you find something that suits you, and practice, practice and practice again, before moving on to the more advanced settings.
Jon
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It would help more if you could let us know what lens set up you have. However, at this stage don't become wrapped up with all the settings as you will just confuse yourself even more.
I currently use a D800/D200 with three main lenses. In normal conditions I use speed priority and a speed of a 400th or more to ensure that lens shake is eliminated, especially with the lager lenses (80/400mm and 70/200mm) at the same time ensuring that the ISO is high enough to ensure edge to edge sharpness. In practice this means and ISO of 400 on dull low light days and less in bright spring/ summer days; with the shorter focal lenses an ISO 100 and a lower speed is quite feasible in most conditions. As for focusing, I usually keep the release down until the focus point locks on to the best point for my requirements.
The only real way of finding out though, is to use the basic settings until you find something that suits you, and practice, practice and practice again, before moving on to the more advanced settings.
Jon
It would be a 18-140mm and a 300mm lens.
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Hello, could anyone suggest me a "better camera"? I bought mine SONY DCS-T300 (https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonyt300) back in 2008 just cause I needed "a small compact camera & that one looked cool & 10.1 Mpx with a 5x zoom seemed to be enough (for that time)". It's the one I made & keep making all my ship pics... But I never was fully satisfied with how the pics turn out - some were Ok, some were not as it's either the ship is too far away or on zoom-ins the pic looks "flat & grainy", couldn't make good enough shots indoor, etc.
I'm still a n00b in terms of cameras - all I could do is pressing the button while having some simple settings. So this time I'm buying a new one I need to be sure I didn't miss a better choice. So what I'm looking for should be:
- compact camera (not a big thing with a special case for it)
- Mpx as much as possible
- greater zoom-ins with photo at such looking like the camera indeed got closer to the object, but not like if the normal pic got cropped & all the grain & haze & stuff visible at it's best.
- additional lens?
- great photos indoor even if the lighting is poor & flash not used
- long living battery
- preferably a touch-screen on the back
- photos looking "sharp & alive" as if done by a professional with a professional big camera.
Though if there's no compact pocket camera that can be that good, suggest anything else - the only thing I'm afraid here is that the camera + collection of lenses & other accessories would be too expensive & too much of stuff for me to carry.
Regards,
Denis
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denis
what is your budget
peter
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http://www.digitaltrends.com/photography/image-sensor-size-matters/
read this first to avoid some disappointment. If a camera seller is trying to convince you that a camera with more megpixels is better, just leave the shop.
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I'm looking for camera that's under 20000 roubles (~275 Euros) or 15000 roubles. I bought mine in 2008 for 14000 roubles - that's pretty expensive even now, just the camera was pretty new at that time.
Anything you can suggest regarding the brand, model, country of making, etc.
Pieter, what's in that link is what I'd call "rocket science" as much of what's written there doesn't tell me anything. I don't know anything in those theories, parameters, abbreviations, etc. All I need is a suggestion list of "better cameras" & examples of what each can produce. Having compared the "photos by this one look better than by that one" then I can decide & go looking for it in shops here.
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Why not try specific enthusiast site showing best cameras for uses. https://www.dpreview.com/buying-guides
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Hej Denis, try to check this one with mega zoom.
https://www.dpreview.com/news/4034082826/canon-powershot-sx720-hs-boasts-new-40x-zoom-lens-with-a-compact-form-factor
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Hello Denis,
Since late last year I have been using a SONY DXC-HX400V with 20.4 megapixels and 50x optical zoom with Carl Zeiss lens. My opinion Sony make the best cameras and Carl Zeiss the best lenses but that's only my opinion.
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Paul that looks impressive, how is the quality at full zoom? Can you use a monopod? Prices in Holland are about 450 euro, possibly slightly above Denis' budget. I might also be a tat too big. Note that the mpx amount is about the same as a Canon 1Dx, of which the body alone is about 12 times more expensive. The Canon 1D MkIV that I am using has 16.1 mpx...(This harks back to the link I posted earlier, do not judge the quality of the camera by the number of mpx).
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Hi Pieter,
This shot in the link is one at almost full 50x optical zoom taken with the SONY HX400V from a moving ferry www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=2502169 Al I have done to the photo was crop and sharpen a bit. I let everyone be the judge but for a camera around $500-600 Aust dollar it does all right. I am at a guess you can you use a monopod I use a tripod with it for night shoots.
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Hi Paul, looks very good value for money. Perhaps Denis will consider the size of the camera to be an issue. The fact that a tripod can be used makes it 100% suitable for a monopod.
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After Brexit A$ 500 AUD =
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Hi Denis
I think most of us have spare cameras that we either don't use or keep them just in case
I have a few that I don't need now so when I return from work later today I will let you know what I have
If they are of use to you then I'm more than happy to let you have one
I don't want any money for them but if you pay the postage I'm happy with that
Kind regards
Peter
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Thinking of replacing my Panasonic FZ50 with Nikon D5300 and Tamron 15-300 - anyone have any experience with the latter kit? Trying to justify the
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I use this camera, and find it excellent, but I have the Tamron 16x300 and find this a very competent lens and more than capable to satisfy my needs of ship photography, oh and at a fraction of the
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I use this camera, and find it excellent, but I have the Tamron 16x300 and find this a very competent lens and more than capable to satisfy my needs of ship photography, oh and at a fraction of the
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Hi Patrick, I think 16-300 is a bit of a waste, in the sense that on any picture taken below 25mm a ship will most likely look distorted and with 16 mm it may look completely bend. I use a 28-300 (and an expensive one too) but on 28 mm the horizon is never completely as it should be. So my advice is to go for one with a less wide angle just to prevent diaappointments.
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I use an 18-300 mm and it dos not produce any "fish-eye" effect
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Hi Guys,
I've always been of the idea that 18 - 300 is too great a range to have edge to edge sharpness through the range, and with ships, the name is always towards the edge of the pic. I prefer to use a 70 - 300 and on a second camera 24 - 105. OK its two cameras but I'm happy with the results.
Allan
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I use an 18-300 mm and it dos not produce any "fish-eye" effect
Bob, I did not say fish eye, but my "horizon" at 28 is never completely horizontal. Maybe you check that out for yourself in photoshop or whatever you use. It is not always disturbing but when you know that it is distorted slightly I pay attention to avoid using whenever possible. I also have a 16-38, which I seldomly use at all for ships.
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Hi Pieter,
It was the best option to give me some wide angle and the telephoto in a single lens. As I said though, I have opted for the Panasonic FZ1000 bridge camera which gives me 25-400 35mm equivalent (with up to 800 with digital zoom in some modes) - should be more than enough. I usually try not to go much below 35-40 for wide angle though.
Regards
Patrick
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Hi Pieter,
It was the best option to give me some wide angle and the telephoto in a single lens. As I said though, I have opted for the Panasonic FZ1000 bridge camera which gives me 25-400 35mm equivalent (with up to 800 with digital zoom in some modes) - should be more than enough. I usually try not to go much below 35-40 for wide angle though.
Regards
Patrick
OK looks good, but do not count on the digital zoom for good quality stuff. I have used such a camera in Indonesia once, and regretted later on that I did not bring my normal gear, but I had not expected a trip in the bay of Surabaya at the time.
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Patrick, Fz1000 is a very good choice. So good I gave up with Canon and collection of zoom lenses. I generally stick to Aperture or Shutter modes but if you need just a little more zoom without using digital trickery the Intelligent Auto mode is also excellent. As always read the manual, you can alter lighting settings in an instant re sun and gloomy weather and I prefer using viewfinder with horizon display. I use vivid colours option. The video option is extremely good.
Have just uploaded DHT PHOENIX (only one on site) taken with Intelligent Auto at range of 1.7 km. Still a bit of zoom in reserve. http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=2521027
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Hi
Please I need help with my NIKON D5100 . My photos are not acceptable on the site and I purposely bought it for shipspotting alone. The issue is with the resolution.
Best regards
Mohammed
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You probably need to resize them, which you can do in all photo editing suites, including those bundled with cameras themselves. It's never a good idea to upload photos straight out of a camera anyway as the quality might not be as good as it should be. Use a photo editor not just for resizing but to make them look better and more acceptable for shipspotting.com too.
Brgds
Phil
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That does not sound like a camera issue, but you may have to reduce the size of the picture to get within the maximum size limit allowed here. Possibly you can reduce the size in your camera, but why compromise on the quality of the pictures, if you can easily reduce the size by postprocessing. There are enough free programs on the web that will let you do that.
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Thank you Phil and Peiter
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For free imaging software .. very easy to use .. try http://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDetail.htm . Also on the site is image resizing software, also free. I've used both in preference to Photoshop (also on my desktop)for quick improvement to photos. (I've no association with Faststone)
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Hi Mohammed
My camera is also a NIKON D5100. I am not technically inclined and it is always set to P.
When I need to resize the image from the camera to be less than the 4000 maximum accepted by the site, I choose 3950
Before selecting an editor I suggest you read the FAQ titled Photo Manipulation found from the Support tab on the Home page. See http://www.shipspotting.com/support/faq.php?category=Photo%20Manipulation
Good luck
Clyde
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Hope that you find a good solution, Mohammed.
Are you still in Nigeria? - we certainly appreciate photos from there - not least all the old favourites from Europe that go there in their old age!
best wishes for 2017.
David
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Hi all,
Looking to upgrade from my bridge camera. Know nothing about photography skills as such but wanted to get the low down on some entry level DSLR's.
Nikon or Canon? I know there's a big following out there for both models.
Regards,
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Was looking at Nikon to replace my FZ50 but then found the FZ1000, still a bridge but cracking lens and 20+mp - a very nice camera. Will also do 4k video :)
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Hi Patrick,
Is that the sort of camera where you can bolt extra lenses on and risk dust on the lens?
Never had a camera like that myself, always had a fixed lens but wondered if it was worth taking the risk (as everyone does) of indulging myself with that type of camera.
Regards,
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No it is a bridge with fixed lens, I too was wary of interchangeable lenses allowing dust in but also wanted a manual zoom control - the Panasonic FZ1000 has both lever and rotating collar on the lens - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-DMC-FZ1000EB-Bridge-Camera-25-400mm/dp/B00M0LQVEQ
If you're in the UK Currys/PCWorld do them so you might be able to have a look at one in the flesh before buying :)
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Buying a DSLR with a proper zoom lens will almost always put you in a position where you do not have to change lenses at all. So don't be afraid of what you will not have to do.
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Take Patrick's advice and get hands on. Check prices as UK Amazon link is nowhere near the cheapest. I've been using a FZ1000 for a year. Parked my Canon SLR and lenses in a cupboard.
Has horizon indicator to prevent taking ships going up/down hill; and can alter for over or under exposure with a click while viewing the exposure either through view finder or fold out/rotate LCD screen. IMHO highly recommended.
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However do not forget that the number op MPs on an FZ1000 might by around 20 MP, the size of the sensor is only about one third of that of a proper Canon DSLR, so read for instance this.
http://newatlas.com/camera-sensor-size-guide/26684/
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People interested in free and open source post processing software for their photos might be interest in the website PIXLS: https://pixls.us/ (https://pixls.us/)
This website includes tutorials, blog, software listing (https://pixls.us/software/) and a forum (https://discuss.pixls.us/).
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Hello, been quite a while! ::)
Could anyone suggest a "best" compact camera?
Should cost around 300 Euros or less, lotsa megapixels, high optical zoom & quality of pics, etc. I was more or less satisfied with my Sony DSC T-300 from 2008 with 10Mpx, so a quick browse across current Sony compact cameras, I choose:
https://www.sony.com/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras/dsc-hx50-hx50v#product_details_default
https://www.sony.com/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras/dsc-hx80#product_details_default
https://www.sony.com/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras/dsc-wx350#product_details_default
https://www.sony.com/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras/dsc-wx500
Also
https://www.canon.co.uk/cameras/powershot-sx740-hs/
A tilting touch screen would be a plus.
Something around those or from other brands with similar features or better.
Kind regards!
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Denis, don't get lured into the megapixel selling trick. What is important is the size of the sensor, where all these pixels have to form a nic picture. Rather ask for a larger size sensor with less mp than for a small once with zillions mp.
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Well, which one could you recommend among these:
https://www.dpreview.com/products/sony/compacts/sony_dschx80/specifications
https://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/compacts/canon_sx740hs/specifications
Also, does it matter which brand & where it was made?
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Denis, I really could not give you advise on that, I never use these sort of camera's but I think that both Sony and Canon are good options.
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Denis, you have to go and try to see if you and it are made for each other. My mistake I did not, just relied on reviews as I was in a hurry. Take your own SDHC card in, some long shots outside the shop, take them home and see. If the shop is worth its salt they will be happy for you to try one or two possibles.
I've got the Sony HX90V ..the more expensive version. Most disappointed with the shots. Bought it to fit in my pocket with 30x zoom! for a cruise to Russia but results are poor unless you are blessed with very good light. OK for everyday use with minimum zooming.Had to "Photoshop" the results. Fiddly to use. Fingers keep hitting wrong buttons and viewfinder is a fiddle. Need to raise and then pull out the lens. Lots of gizmos but are they worth it when shots are mediocre.
Do you need camera to be small or are you tempted by the zoom? $=
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Hi, Chas! Thanks for an input - wish I could see examples of best/worst shots & them from a zoomin then. Also, I did read some reviews say that these cameras is "not the Sony it used to be".
I need a compact camera which I can carry in my pants' pocket like a smartphone. It must have high zoom cause with my current one with 5x optical zoom 10mpx I can only do nice shots of ships that are within 50-200m from me & in a good light. Taking pics in my own room is almost pointless with it - even in a good light all comes out grainy & worse than if via current good smartphone. I was quite satisfied with how pics come out via Huawei P20 Pro, especially on a zoom, but buying that just cause of it's camera is a no.
None of the shops in my city had either of Sony DSC HX80 / Canon SX740HS / Nikon CoolPix A900 I thought I could try in my hands - all stores had very simple & very complex & big cameras.
Honestly, I bought my current camera https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonyt300 back then just cause it had a very cool design & well... cause I needed a camera. ;D Here's an example of a decent shot by it in a good light on a 5x zoom - I was like 100m away from the object. I'm very picky to quality when viewed in full size & here all details can be clearly seen: https://i.imgur.com/8OdoIaq.jpg The camera I want should produce much better than this & in a wide range of conditions.
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Denis, see reply in Shipspotting message box. Chas
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I am the fans of Canon camera. It's a good choice for newbie. 2019 10 best quality options offer more choice for you:
https://docsbay.net/canon-camera-2019-10-quality-options-from-canons-camera-stable
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Does anyone have tips or tricks on how to avoid haze in pictures? I take quite a few pictures of cruise ships turning in the port of Zeebrugge before putting to sea using my Nikon D3300 and Tamron 18-200mm lens. During the summer, pictures tend to come out quite hazy as you can see on the example below.
I don't know if any editing can help this (I don't have much experience with Lightroom) or perhaps if a filter is more suitable (I have never used those).
Thanks for your input.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48330372067_d93a0f5c01_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gCMMP2)Brilliance of the Seas (https://flic.kr/p/2gCMMP2) by cedrichacke (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cedrichacke/), on Flickr
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Hi Cedric,
Indeed haze is a problem when shooting at sea. I have a lot of pictures with loads of haze especially from Singapore and China, also when zooming in the problem becomes worse.
You can easily "de-haze" with a lot of photo programs.
I don't know if you shoot raw or Jpeg, but with a lot of cameras you can also raise the contrast for Jpeg output, which will already help.
However you will never get it 100% away.
Cheers,
Roy
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Hallo Cedric;
I take my pictures in jpeg and use adobe photoshop elements for editing, this programm has a de haze filter wich works in my opinion quite well.
Regards
Henk
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Hi Denis,
Just reading all the reccomendations regarding a new camera.
I use a Pentax X5 bridge camera and i am very impressed with the results.
It is so small you could almost fit it in your pocket.
Cost