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1  Shipspotters all over the world / Site related news, functions and modules / Re: Is there a site problem? on: August 01, 2018, 09:16:03 pm
One addition: as I mentioned weeks before, this only happens If you have Javascript turned on.

No Javascript, no redirection.

But turning Javascript off permanently nowadays renders most features of a website unusable and useless.

So there persists a problem and the site should be used with caution. Sad but true.

Best regards,

2  Shipspotters all over the world / Site related news, functions and modules / Re: Is there a site problem? on: August 01, 2018, 09:09:31 pm
When I try to view the summary of the last post of a member (from the profile page) I still get redirected after a few seconds to:

Using Linux, Adblocker, Ghostery and so on ...

These Problems persist way too long now ...

This should have been solved a long time ago and I doubt that It will be in the near future if I go through the posts above.

Best regards,

3  Shipspotters all over the world / Site related news, functions and modules / Re: Is there a site problem? on: June 10, 2018, 12:06:34 pm
Hello Hendrik,

here in Germany (Win7, Firefox) the message also doesn't show up anymore.

It only showed up on my Windows computers, not on those running Linux.

I saw it several times yesterday, with different names of the .exe file and different sources ( and [something].ru). I forgot to take a screenshot ...

Thanks for your post and your work!

Best regards,

4  Shipspotters all over the world / Site related news, functions and modules / Re: Is there a site problem? on: June 09, 2018, 09:00:07 am
This behaviour of the site is highly suspicious as well as the source ( of the .exe file you should download and install.

I am working in IT security for 20+ years and can only strongly recommend NOT TO FOLLOW these instructions and DO NOT DOWNLOAD AND INSTALL ANYTHING!

When using Firefox, check your plugins on the Add-ons-Page and if necessary, update them there.

I got the message and the download-popup also and when I enabled the Java-Plugin which is disabled by default, the message dissappeared.

But I have to say, once a site showed such a behaviour, I don't trust it anymore and only use it with extreme caution (in this case: linux live CD for example).

I also can't understand why there is no clarifying word on this subject to this day by any technician responsible.

Best regards,

5  Shipspotters all over the world / Scale Models / Re: Scratch built coaster on: June 08, 2017, 06:15:49 pm
Hello Arne!

Looking at the pictures and videos of this and your other models I have to say: you build very beautiful and well crafted ships!

I like the prototype and the model is a perfect representation of it.

And I like the paintjob - not that unrealistic rust and dirt all over ...

If my own yard wasn't so crowded with ships in various stages of completion at the moment I would be tempted to ask you for a plan or hull if available ...

Best regards,

6  Shipspotters all over the world / Scale Models / Re: Cardboard Models on: March 27, 2017, 05:44:24 am
OK, 1:96 Scale.

I model hull plating to a scale of 1:48 only. I had a few discussions with shipmodellers of museums in the past and they convinced me that in small scales a model looks more realistic if small details are only printed or painted on. I made the test and really had to agree.

For cardboard models I use mainly "UHU Alleskleber" (all purpose glue), CA for small parts and a mixture mainly made of wood-glue for the larger hull parts.

But most of the time I use cardboard models as a template for bigger models made of wood, brass, styrene, ..

Best regards,

7  Shipspotters all over the world / Scale Models / Re: Cardboard Models on: March 26, 2017, 08:15:24 pm

OK, here's what I would do:
- try to get a plan and/or paper mode of a ship as similar as possible (regarding type, size and year of construction)
- draw a plan of the hull and superstructure from pictures - calculating the proportions with the help of proportions from the plans mentioned above
- for details and fittings I would use the appropriate details from the plans/papermodels of similar ships (e.g. bollards, life boats, hatch covers)

You said that you sailed on this ship so I suppose you know the basic facts about it like measurements, type of hatch covers and so on.

A great book on details and fittings of cargo ships (but most examples are from ships built before 1950) is 'A ship modelmaker's manual' by John Bowen.

If I find a plan of a similar ship in my archives or catalogues that might be helpful to you then I will post it if you are interested.

Are you planning to build a waterline model? And which scale?

I am building RC scale models for many years, my scratchbuilt-project for the next year is MV Queen Of The North of BC Ferries which sank in 2006 (my last trip with her was only a few weeks before the sinking).

Best regards,

8  Shipspotters all over the world / Scale Models / Re: Decals on scratch built models on: December 14, 2016, 07:59:05 am

There is something I always wanted to try: a form of pad printing.

For now it's only theory, but I will try it as soon as I have the time:

1. Get type case with a set of characters in various sizes of a movable type used in letterpress printing.
2. Set the name or whatever should appear on the model.
3. Apply paint an let it dry a little.
4. Transfer with a pad onto the model (material of the pad is subject to a trial and error process I suppose).
5. Seal with transparent paint.

Pad printing is how industrial mass produced models are decorated, so in principle it should work and I think it's worth a try!

Best regards,

9  Shipspotters all over the world / Scale Models / Re: Decals on scratch built models on: December 13, 2016, 04:25:27 pm

In the past I used self-made signs and decals as well as online services.

For the most common scales (e.g. 1:50, 1:100) there are sheets with draught marks available.

When you take a look at model railroader magazines (ok, I confess I'm a model railroader, too) there are quite some suppliers of decals where you can upload your own computer generated drawings from which they make the decals. Especially popular for Northern American railroading with the many different roadnames there. I can look up some in the US or in Great Britain, if you like.

In the past I used commercial labeling machines, too. But the quality (resolution) of the prints is not that good. I printed it out on thin film and carefully painted the letters over with a very small brush. The disadvantage is that however thin the film is, you see it on the finished model if you take a closer look.

For the names of ships in the scale of 1:48 to 1:20 I used noodles. Yes, there are noodles in the shape of characters for soups for example. I sort the best out, glue them to the hull and paint them over. Looks like charakters welded on the hull and cost nothing - there are always enough left for a good soup!

Best regards,

10  Shipspotters all over the world / Scale Models / Re: new model maker on: December 12, 2016, 11:43:05 pm

I'm building ship models since 1991, the RC Models count to 68 - not all finished, in various stages.
Finished and operational are about 20. The nunmber of unfinished models is so high because I often by wrecks, unfinished kits, ... and restore them.
The models are scratch-built and kits, made of wood (various techniques), abs and other plastics, brass, ... and rage from about 40 cm in length (british Coaster S.S. Gowerian in 1:100) to about 1.5 m (Liberty ship, operational Submarines).

I started way back with a used tug kit (little work was already done,but what was done was done good), that was cheap (as many accessories came with it that otherwise would have to be bought seperatly) and a good starting point. As I said, I still purchase these today.

If you would like to start building in wood (e.g. planked wooden hull, brass fittings) you need a minimum set of tools - more than you need for building kits with a prefabricated plastic hull.
If you want to build a RC Model with a wooden hull, the finished hull should be covered with something like EZ-Cote and fibre glass mats.

You are interested in coasters - great, so am I! There are a few great kits around - I am currently building a S.S. Talacre from a Calder Craft Kit (1:48), fibre glass hull, wooden superstructure and decks, white metal fittings.
A very similar but slightly bigger Coaster named Ben Ain (1:32) is available from Mountfleet Models.
My scratch-built S.S. Gowerian (similar but bigger two-hatch prototype) is based on a Model Plan which is also suitable to build this ship in a larger scale and with a wooden hull.

Perhaps you would like a Clyde Puffer? There are Kits available from tiny 1:72 (Deans Marine, I own this one) to 1:32 (Calder Craft I think) as well as plans.

So there are some decisions to make before you start: Should it float (and be RC)? Kit or Scratch-built? Scale and prototype?  ...

I would suggest to start with a kit, perhaps a used one. You can check if this is really yours (you will need a lot of patience - hours and hours in your workshop with only very little progress you can see at first) and you won't have to spend that much money but more important you won't have to learn so many techniques all at the same time.

More questions? Feel free to ask!

Best regards,

11  Shipspotters all over the world / Shipping News and information / Re: Strange goings on in the Java Sea on: November 16, 2016, 08:07:34 pm

I read about this, too.

I can only imagine that if there was a clandestine salvage operation you would at least have a large amount of explosives to tear the wreck apart and a ship or barge with a device like a huge excavator to get the metal debris to the surface.

Wrecks in the shipping lanes of the North Sea and the Elbe river were cleared this way as vessels got bigger and bigger and they became a navigational hazard.

This is not possible with ships like fishing boats, as one german newspaper suggested.

The salvaged metal by the way is often more than scrap metal: the metal of ships build and sunk before the first nuclear explosions is of a special value for a number of scientific and other uses. The wrecks of Scapa Flow were stripped of metal parts because of this until a few years ago.

It is an act of disrespect, there is nothing to argue about.

But when there is enough money to make ... you don't have to go to the indonesian waters to see what happens.

Best regards,

12  Shipspotters all over the world / Site related news, functions and modules / Re: "Shared" photos on: August 22, 2016, 07:48:18 am
The fact is, as said before: if you upload your pictures anywhere on the web, be it this site or any other, you give others the chance to use them for whatever they want and you give away control over your pictures.

If you have a lawyer at hand, you can sue them (if you find out who really is behind it and if that someone lives in your country - otherwise you can forget it in the first place).

There are sites which try to prevent deep links, disable right-click, and so on. There is a simple workaround for all of this (right-click disabled -> install NoScript and forget about it for example).

Anyone has to make up his or her mind about that before uploading - that's it.

I'm still not sure whether I want this, so of my 10000+ photos only a few are found here as a test.

Best regards,

13  Shipspotters all over the world / Help and Advice / Re: DIGITAL STORAGE OF YOUR PHOTOGRAPHS on: June 06, 2016, 12:49:27 pm
Cloud services are an esay to use option, yes.

But ... and there is a big BUT at least for me:

they come and go, so you must be ready to move so to speak.

In the past I used quite a few of them (from Kodak to Ubuntu among others) - all were shut down.
Usually you are noticed in time and there is time to retrieve your files, but when it happens the former convenient service is suddenly not convenient any more.

Apple is no exception - they started the .mac service a few years ago with a big advertising campaign and shut it down two years later.

For me this is a big drawback so I stick with my own cloud (most NAS systems have this feature in connection with Dyndns or a similar service).

Best regards,

14  Shipspotters all over the world / Help and Advice / Re: DIGITAL STORAGE OF YOUR PHOTOGRAPHS on: June 06, 2016, 07:35:03 am
I forgot to add one tip if using NAS systems:

- buy a system with two drives in RAID 1 for example
- after some time (I usually wait about a year) replace one of the disks with a new one (same model)
- format the disk you have removed from the NAS, put it in an external case you get for a few $ and use it as a backup attached via usb to the NAS


Now you have a NAS with two disk which are not from the same production run and one is younger than the other (so it is unlikely that they both fail at the same time) - plus a backup disk.

I had systems where one disk failed and after I replaced it and the data was synchronised (which takes quite some time and stresses the remaing original disk) the other (old) disk failed during the process, too.
In this case your data is lost if you don't have a backup.

Best regards,

15  Shipspotters all over the world / Help and Advice / Re: DIGITAL STORAGE OF YOUR PHOTOGRAPHS on: June 06, 2016, 07:13:46 am
I am also using a NAS with 2 x 4TB in RAID1 configuration (1 on 1 copy like Frans said).

But I have to add that this is NO BACKUP!
There are still some things that can go wrong, and then the files on both drives are lost.
There are many storys I could tell about this, I am working with this stuff since 1993.
These Raid systems are meant for high data availability, they are not designed as a backup solution.

Most NAS systems come with the possibility to backup the contents on an external hard drive - you should USE this feature (especially if the NAS is not that big and as the prices for usb drives are quite affordable).

If you really want to be on the safe side, then from  time to time store a copy of your most valuable data in a DIFFERENT LOCATION!

I had customers with very sophisticated backup solutions - which proved to be completely useless as they were all in one place and swept away together when the water came in ...

Best regards,

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